Cold weather, hot showers!!

 

Friday 25th April 2014

 

It rained overnight, but the sun is shining and the sky is blue. A quick visit to Ambon for yet more croissant was followed by breakfast by the river near Muzillac....once we found it that is....for some reason the french seem to want to keep it secret!

Today we braced ourselves for a long day in Bluebelle, hoping to get some miles under our belt and head South...well, that was the plan...so we programmed trusty TomTom to take us to St Nazaire, via the fastest route. All good so far...until, that is, BT being BT decided that a route along the coast would be far more interesting!! We are fully expecting trusty Tom Tom to self destruct any day now...not only have we disabled him from speaking, we also continually ignore him, expecting him to show us the way, including our new route, without any compliant!!

So, we took a left off of the N165 towards the Barrage de Anzal. The bridge was up when we arrived, so we watched as a tourist boat and yacht entered into the lock the other side of the bridge. We then pootled along through Asserac, past Mesquer and onto the coast. On our map this piece of coast line has a green line along it which means that it is an area of outstanding natural beauty. They weren’t wrong and we were not disappointed..it was beautiful We passed through a town called Priac-sur-mer....what a gorgeous place. We always find it really amusing that the roads through towns are so small and windy ...almost like footpaths...i find myself breathing in, hoping that Bluebelle doesn't touch the houses on either side

We stopped for a coffee break on a beach just around the headland at a place called Lerat. It had a lovely little harbour snuggled into one corner of the beach and the most sparkly sand I have ever seen!

[caption id="attachment_320" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Coffee time[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_321" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Time for a break to enjoy the sun[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_319" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Coffee time view[/caption]



 



Over coffee we gave ourselves a stiff talking to ...we need to cover some ground and head south...without the detours! Trusty Tom Tom was set for La Roche sur Yon...and guess what....??? we actually managed to follow instructions this time.

[caption id="attachment_324" align="aligncenter" width="427"] The bridge at St Nazaire[/caption]

Oh...and look...another MacDonald's. So a quick blog update, a chat to family and we were on our way. Fuel was the next item on the list. Since leaving home we have filled the tank three times and we have covered 1500 miles and still have a full tank.

I’m not sure whether to admit the next bit, but we haven’t had a shower for a few days now...!!!To that end, we ran around the city tying to find a sports centre or swimming pool where we cold have a shower. We came across one but it was about to close, so on we went, smelly and greasy (not that bad really...just makes for a more interesting blog!!) and Simon threatening me with a cold shower tomorrow....lets hope we find something soon!

On leaving La Roche sur Yon, we headed for the coast again to try to find a place for the night. It was not an easy task tonight. We trundled round and round eventually settling on a piece of land off the beaten track, next to a river at L’Aiguilon-sur-Mer.

[caption id="attachment_325" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Nighttime spot[/caption]





We have both decided that we are not fond of this area at all, so not one to return to.

Some of the things I have noticed today as we have travelled South are the lack of rapeseed fields; smaller white houses have replaced the tall elegant houses of Brittany: red tiled roofs instead of grey and brightly painted shutters. There is much more of a mediterranean feel....a hope for sun!

 

 

Saturday 26th April 2014

 

What a stormy night. Rain and wind like you’ve never heard it...we were glad to be tucked up inside Bluebelle.

When Simon has frequently flown backwards and forwards from the Balearics to home he has often noticed two little islands just off the coast from La Rochelle and has wanted to visit them as, from the air, they looked stunning. So here we are. On the Ile de Re. It seems that it is going to live up to the expectations Simon has, despite only ever having seen it from 35,000’ up! The wind has not let up today but that isn’t going to stop us having fun. Following our noses we found a small car park next to the beach where we made coffee and planned a bike ride along the coast towards the next town. Before leaving, to my absolute horror (ssshhhh!!..don’t tell BT or I’ll be in BT)...Simon filled our black portable shower bag with water and hung it out to warm up in readiness for a wash/shower later....was he really serious??? It may feel like the Mediterranean in every other way...but not in the weather...it is positively cold at the moment. The sun appears occasionally but the wind is freezing....I’m not planning on any kind of outside shower right now....yes, there is mutiny being planned!!!

Anyway, we had a lovely ride to the local town called St Marie De Re....it is beautiful, so many little alley ways with tiny white, red roofed cottages that have shutters painted in a myriad of shades of green and blue.

[caption id="attachment_328" align="aligncenter" width="427"] St Marie de Re[/caption]





Jane...you would love all the hollyhocks here...they are not quite out yet, but judging by the postcards I have seen they grow everywhere...out of any nook and cranny....I wish I could have taken photos for you, but a couple of photos of postcards will have to suffice!



[caption id="attachment_334" align="aligncenter" width="640"] This is how the village will look in a few weeks...[/caption]

On our journey along the coast we came across a little campsite right on the edge of the sea. After a little discussion and much nodding of the head from Billy...(HOT shower in mind) we have decided to stay at the site tonight. We have a spot right next to the beach...almost on top of the sea...its stunning!

[caption id="attachment_332" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Happy…just had a shower and it's sunny![/caption]

[caption id="attachment_331" align="aligncenter" width="640"] The view from Bluebelle[/caption]

You will probably think from the photos that  it is beautifully warm and sunny...take a closer look...I’m wearing two jumpers, bed socks, and snuggly trousers and Simon has even turned very French and put on his scarf!

[caption id="attachment_315" align="aligncenter" width="640"] It was definitely a day to hang the flags out![/caption]

[caption id="attachment_316" align="aligncenter" width="427"] Very French![/caption]

We have settled into our own routine of setting up camp...Simon busies himself with getting Bluebelle positioned so we can get as much shelter as possible, putting out the awning, etc...and I put out the chairs and table...and get the kettle on!

[caption id="attachment_317" align="aligncenter" width="640"] All set up..even got some washing done![/caption]

We decided to cycle back to the place we had coffee, park the bikes and walk along the beach...beautiful...sun shining, wind blowing, but still lovely...that is until we turned and faced the other way...HUGE black clouds looming...so a very fast walk back to the bikes...not easy on slidey sand, then a hop on to the bikes...it was so windy we had to pedal DOWNhill just to keep moving!!

We made it back just before the heavens opened...well, there was nothing for it...you could hardly see us for dust...it was a rush to the shower, hot water, clean hair and body...what a treat. It was hard to leave the warmth...I kept allowing myself ‘just another push of the button’ ..for what must have been a good 10 minutes...until I really had to drag myself away. Simon was wondering if we washed ourselves 4/5 times in one shower whether that would last us for even more days??? I don’t think it works like that!

We saw the last bit of evening sun just before yet more rain. We’ve seen a forecast for tomorrow but are choosing not to believe it...it says it will be wet and VERY windy...Nah....we’re on holiday...what do you mean rain????

 

Sunday 27th April 2014

 

Oh what a night!!! Bluebelle was a rockin and a rollin.....the weather was awful...the wind has increased and the rain has been non stop. We braced ourselves, got kitted up in wet weather gear and headed into town in search of croissants and bread. After cycling down lots of little alleyways we eventually found what we were looking for. A quick scoot home and we were back to camp having missed the rain..this time.

[caption id="attachment_333" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Breakfast…yes, we are piling on the pounds!!![/caption]

We have decided that we would like to see more of this little island, so have booked another night (more HOT showers) at this campsite and decided to go exploring by van and by bike.

After a little drive around the island we decided to leave Bluebelle at a place called Le Martray and joined a cycle path back down the island. We cycled for 3 hours covering about 20km...on our way we discovered St Martin De Re...what a lovely town so steeped in history...look it up on Google...we were amazed to see a photo of it from the air which shows the amazing walls and ramparts all constructed in a star shape

[caption id="attachment_336" align="aligncenter" width="427"] Lighthouse at the end of Ile De Re[/caption]



[caption id="attachment_339" align="aligncenter" width="427"] Ooooh…fancy a rummage?[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_340" align="aligncenter" width="427"] Entering the town[/caption]



[caption id="attachment_342" align="aligncenter" width="427"] St Martin de Re[/caption]



[caption id="attachment_344" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Harbour at St Martin De Re[/caption]



....then on to La Flotte where we left the bikes locked up and caught a bus back to the van.

After retrieving the bikes we made for home. We have had a really lovely day today, there have been many rain showers but we have missed them all and remained dry...very windswept, but dry! We both love this island but wish that we could have had sunny weather as it would have made such a difference. A place to return to one day we think.

 

Turning South

Wednesday 23rd April

 

Aujourd'hui, il pleut......beaucoup!

[caption id="attachment_268" align="aligncenter" width="386"] Drip drop little April showers[/caption]

There...I am brave enough to try some french...please don’t all jump at once and tell me it’s all wrong!!! I’m sure it’s just the fact that at this moment I am bathed in evening sunshine, listening to the sound of the sea washing up onto the shore and hundreds of little birds singing an evening chorus, breathing in the fresh salt air, drinking a cool beer and with the person I love, that’s giving me this lasse faire attitude.

[caption id="attachment_295" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Here I am typing the blog![/caption]

However, last night and this morning it really did rain ...alot!. During the night poor Bluebelle was rocking from side to side as she was buffetted by the wind and rain, needless to say we didn’t have the best nights sleep...! It certainly makes things much more tricky in such a small space when it is raining...even having a wee is a problem....! I’m not worried about where I go, but, in the pouring rain it’s another matter...so it’s either use our loo (more about that later) or hold on until a toilet becomes available. Getting dressed in the morning can be fun too...one at a time is best. Fortunately, we can turn the passenger seat around to face the back which gives us so much more space. Once the bed is neatly stashed away, there is room to be able to make coffee, put a table up and eat. We had our croissants and coffee and headed off into town....loo stop.



Making a decision of where to go every day can be quite challenging as there are so many places to go and oodles of things to do. We love following the coast road seeing where it brings us, but, in reality this takes up so much time which means we aren’t making any real progress, although we are seeing so many beautiful places. It’s really hard just pointing Bluebelle in the direction trusty Tom Tom is telling us and foregoing the urge to just follow our noses. We have promised ourselves that we will come back to this area and explore it more thoroughly one day.

We stumbled upon our first real market today...lots of little stalls braving the weather to sell local food produce...sea food, cheese, meat, sausages, vegetables and cake. We resisited the urge to buy today as our fridge is full, but will no doubt be tempted in the near future. One of the stalls was selling rotisaried chickens and roast potatoes..the smell was divine, but most of all, it reminded me of a time long ago, camping in France with my parents, when we bought one of these as a treat...we had been eating dried food for weeks...the taste was heaven and I’ve never forgotten it.

So, leaving the coast behind we made for Concarneau, by which time the sun was out and beginning to warm us nicely. Parking by the coast, we unloaded the bikes and cycled into the town. The old town is so pretty.

[caption id="attachment_270" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Concarneau[/caption]

Walking over a stone bridge and through a small archway, a band playing medieval music



you are soon transported back 100’s of years.

[caption id="attachment_271" align="aligncenter" width="427"] Through the arched doorway[/caption]

 

[caption id="attachment_272" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Old town[/caption]

Delightful little shops and houses selling all sorts of traditional goods line each side of the cobbled street.

[caption id="attachment_273" align="aligncenter" width="427"] Sneek peeks[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_274" align="aligncenter" width="427"] Looking down[/caption]

 



 

 

Then a walk along the ramparts takes us back out into present day. We cycled around the town and back to Bluebelle, and headed, once again to a local MacDonalds to upload the latest blog and to catch up with family.

Resisting the urge yet again to trundle down the coast we planned our route and headed for a little place called Etel where we began our search for a night time stop. As I have mentioned before, there are lots of free, designated municiple camping places in France, and although there was one at the harbour in Etel, we decided to trundle on and see if we could find anything better. BT (Simon) didn’t get his name for no reason you know...Big Trouble by name and by nature...so when we come up against a barred (by height) roadway to the beach, BT just nonchantly drives AROUND it...only just making it between two massive rock boulders!!! But, boy was it worth it....just look at the beach we are parked next to...

[caption id="attachment_277" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Night time stop[/caption]

and we are totally alone.



 





Strictly speaking we really shouldn’t be here but, well...wouldn’t you?

We leave nothing but footprints in the sand…..



 

…and finally…..

[caption id="attachment_282" align="aligncenter" width="427"] This tickled me….dogs on leaches!!![/caption]

 

Thursday 24th April 2014

 

After a morning stroll to the beach and some coffee and breakfast we pointed Bluebelle in the direction of Quiberon. The intention was to park somehwhere along the route and cycle in towards the town along the coast. If you take a look at the map you will see that Quiberon is a town situated out on a long spit of land. What we hadn’t appreciated was actually how big the ‘island’ was and how long it would actually take us to cycle our way around it. We finally abandonded Bluebelle en route, hopped onto our bikes and set off. We followed the Cote Savage....it was absolutely stunning despite the overcast chilly weather. The coast line reminded us a lot of North Cornwall so we felt very much at home.

[caption id="attachment_297" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Time for a rest[/caption]







Along the way we happened upon another French market...this time it was much bigger than the last and sold everything...clothes, food, fabric and tools etc... We couldn’ t help but buy some croissant and pain au chocolat for a mid morning snack and a baguette for later. We were amazed at how many people there were here....having become very accustomed to driving through ghost towns, wondering where everyone has gone to!

[caption id="attachment_301" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Market[/caption]



A coffee on the waterfront and then back to Bluebelle.



We cycled about 9/10 miles but hardly made any headway along the ‘island’. Now, when I say we cycle all these long distances, please don’t be under any illusion of us (me) being fit at all...the first ride...back in Ypres, nearly killed me! My knees felt like balloons, I found muscles that haven’t been used in many years and I couldn’t sit down comfortably for a few days!!! So, please take heart...if I can do it, so can you!

[caption id="attachment_305" align="aligncenter" width="640"] I did dip my toes in today but it was so cold it hurt![/caption]

[caption id="attachment_308" align="aligncenter" width="640"] A place called La Bono we stopped at on our way[/caption]



The Gulf of Morbihan is somewhere that Simon has wanted to visit for a long time. Take a look at the map and you will see that it’s a large inland lake, with a small entrance to the sea, filled with many beautiful islands and villages.

[caption id="attachment_310" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Gulf of Morbihan[/caption]

 

There is no way that we could really get a feel for the place in just a few hours. It’s one of those areas that you could easily spend a week or two exploring, either on foot, in canoes or on a boat. It’s a strange feeling for us having all the time in the world to visit these lovely places but also feeling that there is still so much to see and do and the urge to move on. But we will make the effort to come back ,with a specific agenda, and spend more time in just one place, exploring all that it has to offer.

It was late after all our trundling around the nooks and crannies of the gulf so we pinpointed a place on the map where we would find somewhere to stay for the night. Anywhere near the sea, with a lovely view in this area is very well protected and finding those out of the way spots, on the beach, with a view are becoming harder to find....Lots of NO CAMPING CAR signs everywhere! We eventually settled on an Aire...with toilets...and a sea view for the night.



 

Friday 25th April 2014

 

It rained overnight, but the sun is shining and the sky is blue. A quick visit to Ambon for yet more croissant was follwed by breakfast by the river near Muzillac…..to be continued….