Saturday 1 November 2014

Lisbon 2

4th October 2014

Yesterday was such an amazing day. We got stuck in traffic entering the city....it's amazing how quickly you forget traffic jams and queues etc as there really aren't any here. There is so much space, so many places and the population is spread over a much greater area than back at home. We love the open space, the miles of road between towns and villages and the slow pace of life, however, we really don't want to miss out on what the cities have to offer us...and we really couldn't expect to visit Portugal without coming to Lisbon.

We spent the night alongside the river...not in our usual out of the way kind of way, but as one of a long line of motorhomes. When we arrived here yesterday we were shown into the space ...these guys wait around parking lots, roadside parking etc, show people into a space in return for a small fee...it's an unwritten rule, but it means that we can be assured that Bluebelle will be safe. You will probably remember that we used the same system in Valencia...it really does out your mind at rest..anyway, he told us that we would be fine to stay the night and that it was unlikely that Bluebelle would sustain any damage...especially as it was right outside the local Police station!!!

[caption id="attachment_2813" align="aligncenter" width="534"]Breakfast by the river Breakfast by the river[/caption]

Once again, we left Bluebelle by the river and walked into Belem centre. It is here that you MUST try the famous traditional Portuguese pastry...Pastels de Nata. Stepping inside a blue tiled building,  Pasteis de Belem,  on the high street in Belem is like stepping into another era....there are old fashioned glass fronted cabinets from floor to ceiling displaying hundreds of items linked to the making of these pastries. Pasteis de Belem is the birthplace of these Portuguese tarts and it is still using the secret recipe from the nuns of Jeronimos Monastery. Since 1837, these tarts have been made in the same premises by one generation after another of the same family.

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For those of you who don't know...and I didn't...these pastries are similar to egg custard tarts but much sweeter and far more yummy. Pastéis de nata were created before the 18th century by Catholic monks at the Jeronimos Monastry. At the time, convents and monasteries used large quantities of egg-whites for starching of clothes, such as nuns' habits. It was quite common for monasteries and convents to use the leftover egg yolks to make cakes and pastries, resulting in the proliferation of sweet pastry recipes throughout the country. (Thanks to Wikipedia for the information!!) I have to say, they are the most delicious pastry I have had in a LONG time. Served warm with icing sugar and cinnamon sprinkled on top and washed down with a strong espresso..You must try them. But, be warned, the queues stretch out along the street for most of the day. We went late last night..no queue and again early this morning...again no queue.

[caption id="attachment_2815" align="aligncenter" width="640"]They make over 21,000 of these pastries EVERY day! They make over 21,000 of these pastries EVERY day![/caption]

We caught a bus into Lisbon and headed for the museum of Design and fashion ......We found the building covered in 100 different surf boards ...

[caption id="attachment_2816" align="aligncenter" width="640"]Lisbon museum of design and Fashion Lisbon museum of Design and Fashion[/caption]

Inside the building, which used to be a bank, but has now just been left stripped bare, was an  exhibition of articles of design and fashion from the last decade....We both thought it was incredibly well done and the articles on display were fascinating. Of course, as were entered our era (not telling) there were many comments of 'I remember". 'We had one of those'....!  Graffiti artist Andre Saraiva whose iconic, most recognizable character in the street art world, an exuberant stick-figure alter ego, Mr. A was displayed in all his glory....

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[caption id="attachment_2818" align="aligncenter" width="534"]IMG_5924 Andre's first graffiti art was to decorate all the post boxes in his local area[/caption]

And, of course there was a display about local surf board makers and a description of how they are made....really interesting!

All this input made us feel hungry so we found a local bar where they served another local dish... pastéis de bacalhau....

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These are delicious! They are a kind of fish cake with cheese inside. Served warm, the cheese melts and oozes out as you munch them.

[caption id="attachment_2822" align="aligncenter" width="640"]IMG_5931 These yummy morsels have been made in this area since 1904...[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2820" align="aligncenter" width="640"]IMG_5929 This poor girl was stood in this booth all day long making the pastéis de bacalhau![/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2823" align="aligncenter" width="534"]IMG_5932 Beautiful Lisbon architecture..[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2831" align="aligncenter" width="534"]The tile museum... The tile museum...[/caption]

As you already know, one of the key features of Portuguese houses is that many of them are tiled all over. I never saw two the same, all the designs were different. some were terribly uninteresting and others were vibrant, colourful and beautiful. Having photographed many of the tiles we decided to visit the Tile Museum on the outskirts of the city. Getting there by bus was relatively simple, trying to get a bus home however was another story!!

[caption id="attachment_2824" align="aligncenter" width="534"]IMG_5952 Stacks and stacks of old tiles and reference books....[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2826" align="aligncenter" width="640"]IMG_5956 Posing...![/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2825" align="aligncenter" width="534"]IMG_5955 Just stunning corridors....[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2827" align="aligncenter" width="534"]IMG_5959 The museum used to be a convent...[/caption]

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[caption id="attachment_2829" align="aligncenter" width="640"]We weren't able to go inside this amazing church as there was a wedding happening...but we did get to watch the proceedings....what an amazing place to be married! We weren't able to go inside this amazing church as there was a wedding happening...but we did get to watch the proceedings....what an amazing place to be married![/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2830" align="aligncenter" width="392"]I loved this boot which was part of a ceramic display.... It's supposed to show what it may look like had it been lost into the ocean for a long while... I loved this boot which was part of a ceramic display.... It's supposed to show what it may look like had it been lost into the ocean for a long while...[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2832" align="aligncenter" width="640"]Just a few of the tiles on display Just a few of the tiles on display[/caption]

By the time we arrived back at Bluebelle time was getting on, but we didn't want to spend another night in Lisbon so we made the decision to move on and find somewhere by the coast to rest our weary legs!

 

1 comment:

  1. Ahhhh! That brings back so many wonderful memories!! I was so impressed that you remembered the history behind the Belen Tarts - til you mentioned good old Wiki ;-)
    The design museum and the tile place both look amazing! It was great to see all the patterns in the paths too!
    See you soon! xxx

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