Beautiful, wonderful, colourful, vibrant Porto

8th October 2014

We were up early in order to catch the bus into Porto...it stops right outside the campsite and then takes you into the centre of the city...very convenient!

[caption id="attachment_2871" align="aligncenter" width="640"] On arrival we walked down the hill to downtown Porto....[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2875" align="aligncenter" width="534"] ...and made our way here. Julias had told us about this McDonald's and how amazingly beautiful it is...yes, I really did say that about a McDonald's!!![/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2872" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Stunning stained glass windows behind the counter...[/caption]



[caption id="attachment_2874" align="aligncenter" width="640"] ...and chandeliers on the ceiling![/caption]

Not far from here is the main train station building....Sao Bento Railway Station...



[caption id="attachment_2878" align="aligncenter" width="300"] Some of the 20,000 tiles covering the walls...[/caption]

 

It was a sight that took my breath away and made my heart flutter with excitement! It's just beautiful! Opened to the public in 1916, it is well known for its walls that are covered in over 20000 tiles that depict the history of Portugal. That was one dedicated artist...it took 11 years to complete the project!







From the station building it was just a short walk up the hill to Ponte Luis.. a huge iron work bridge designed and built by a student of Gustav Eiffel  When it was opened in 1886 held the record for the longest ironwork arch in the world...and retained that title for seven years. The upper deck is used by pedestrians and the city's metro and the bridges lower deck is for cars and yet more pedestrians. I have to say that this is the very best way to get the most spectacular views of the city. The river Douro runs under the bridge separating tow very distinctive areas of the city. On one side is the wonderful area of Ribeira with it's tall colourful buildings lining the river bank and, on the opposite bank, the more functional area of Gaia where the huge Port wine cellars lie row upon row

[caption id="attachment_2882" align="aligncenter" width="534"] Ponte Luis. We walked along the upper deck, crossing from side to side looking at the amazing views either side of the great river Douro[/caption]

 

[caption id="attachment_2885" align="aligncenter" width="534"] The metro making it's way across the bridge...[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2883" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Looking over the rooftops of Ribeira towards Gaia on the opposite bank[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2884" align="aligncenter" width="534"] Gorgeous rooftops...jumbled tiles spilling out across the tops of many delightful buildings...[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2886" align="aligncenter" width="562"] The remains of Ponte das Barcas....a bridge consisiting of 20 boats linked together with steel cables...inaugurated in 1806. Unfortunately, in 1809, the city was invaded by the French causing thousands of locals to try and flee the invasion across this bridge. As you can imagine, a bridge of this fragility just gave way, and over 4000 people lost their lives that day...these pillars are all that remain.[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2887" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Beautiful, colourful vibrant, wonderful Ribeira.....[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2888" align="aligncenter" width="534"] A jumble of houses nestling into the hillside alongside Porto's funicular railway.[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2889" align="aligncenter" width="640"] A view down the Douro river looking towards the Ponte do Infante and Ponte d'Maria Pia....designed by Gustav Eiffell....bridges in the distance.[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2890" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Beautiful, colourful, crumbling, charming Ribeira....a UNESCO world heritage site. This is my most favourite place in Porto.. it has an amazingly vibrant, buzzy atmosphere..even on a grey drizzly day like today. The riverside is heaving with small bars and restaurants, medieval arches hide market stalls and yet more cool cafes...the buildings are colourful...a little tatty round the edges, but that just adds to the charm of the place. I would love to return on a warm sunny day when the terracotta roof tiles would glow orange and the colours of the houses would come alive....one day maybe![/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2891" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Ribeira on the right and Cais de Gaia riverfront on the left...[/caption]



[caption id="attachment_2894" align="aligncenter" width="534"] Port Wine warehouses[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2896" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Looking back across the bridge[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2898" align="aligncenter" width="546"] We took the cable car from the far end of the bridge down to the Gaia district[/caption]

 

[caption id="attachment_2897" align="aligncenter" width="534"] A view of the warehouse rooftops from the cable car...[/caption]

 

[caption id="attachment_2899" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Looking back across the river Douro[/caption]



Our tickets for the cable car had a voucher for a free tasting of Port at one of the local warehouses...a great piece of marketing because, of course, who are we to turn down such an opportunity!

[caption id="attachment_2901" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Old Port Wine barrels...[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2902" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Cork Oak bark ..used for Port Wine bottles....This cork has amazing properties that make it perfect for using as a stopper. It's impermeable, floats, has elasticity, is disease resistant and bug resistant etc....[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2903" align="aligncenter" width="532"] We tried four different types of Port...I never realised there were so many (ignorant I know)...BT liked the pale Port which is served chilled and I favoured the tawny Port...so, we bought a bottle of each!!! Slurp, slurp...yum!![/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2904" align="aligncenter" width="534"] On the banks of the river we came across a small boat building yard....[/caption]

 

[caption id="attachment_2905" align="aligncenter" width="534"] Stunning...[/caption]

 

[caption id="attachment_2906" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Not quite there yet[/caption]

 



[caption id="attachment_2908" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Thousands of fish squirming and splashing in the water at an outlet into the river...what must be in the water?[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2909" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Traditional Port Wine carrying boats..called rabelos...lined up alongside the riverbank..[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2910" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Another sneaky view across the river towards Ribeira...I just love it![/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2911" align="aligncenter" width="534"] We walked back across the river along the lower deck of Ponte Luis[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2912" align="aligncenter" width="534"] Stunning tiled houses in the Ribeira district of Porto...even the rusty corrugated iron sheets look great![/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2913" align="aligncenter" width="534"] Medieval arches hiding all sorts of treasures![/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2914" align="aligncenter" width="589"] Colour, colour, colour...and wonderful ironwork balconies[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2915" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Scrumptious...[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2916" align="aligncenter" width="540"] We took a tram along the riverfront....once we reached the end of the line, the driver moved the back of the seats so that they all faced the direction of movement...very clever. We have noticed how brilliant the youngsters are at giving up their seats for the old folk (no not us!!) who board the trams....not something we ever see at home on our local buses :([/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2917" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Tram museum...this was actually closed but we were able to wander around the sheds and take photos..[/caption]



[caption id="attachment_2919" align="aligncenter" width="640"] We came across these old photos of the Ribeira district and found them fascinating...not much has changed at all over the years![/caption]

All too soon...and mainly because of the rain...it was time to locate our bus stop and find our way back to the campsite. We have had a wonderful day in Porto and would both love to return again soon. Porto has such a fun, vibrant, community feel about it. The people all seem very relaxed and are happy to help us lost tourists. The colours, textures and shapes have set my heart beating wildly today...just so wonderful!!! (Crazy I know, but I just can't help it!!)

Moving on up!

7th October 2014

[caption id="attachment_2866" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Early morning walk to the beach....[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2867" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Miles and miles of empty, golden sandy beach. We found it a real shame that, because of the lack of visitors to this part of the coast, it really has an unkempt feel about it. It's wonderful for the wildness, space and enormity of the sea, but, with our van, we felt very exposed and vulnerable. As much as we would have liked to walk along the beach, we felt we were unable to because of its remoteness...Bluebelle would have been a sitting target, with no one about, for a spot of smash and grab...not something we were prepared to risk![/caption]



We spent the day in Bluebelle making up some much needed miles...we have very little time left before catching our ferry home and still so much to see and do...so, it was with some sadness that we just got our heads down and tried not to think about what we might be missing and set off towards Porto....

We asked out trusty Tom Tom to find us somewhere to stay overnight..preferably a campsite near/in the city...but after and hour of driving through the centre of Porto, we took matters into our own hands and eventually found a campsite in a small town called Lavra...about an hours bus ride away from Porto. We have driven a LONG way today, so, to find somewhere for a hot shower, some hot food and shelter is a real treat! Porto tomorrow...just can't wait!

Wild Portugal

6th October 2014

As we travel further up the West coast of Portugal we are struck by how much more remote this area is. We try to follow the coast as much as possible, driving along roads that run parallel to the sea, but oftentimes we cannot see the sea..it is obscured by huge sand dunes. So, when we come to a beautiful, unspoilt town like this it is a real joy.

[caption id="attachment_2853" align="aligncenter" width="534"] Sao Martinho do Porto. We stopped here for a coffee and yet another croissant...and to take in the view....[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2854" align="aligncenter" width="640"] A safe harbour if ever I saw one....[/caption]

 

[caption id="attachment_2855" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Now...that's just greedy!!! We just cannot imagine touring Portugal...or anywhere for that matter in this huge truck...especially given the state of the roads!!! But...I bet they have a luxurious HOT shower on board, and a proper loo, headroom, oven etc.....Nope! I still wouldn't want it...we love our small compact Bluebelle too much![/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2856" align="aligncenter" width="640"] We drove through the town of Nazare....now a very quiet ghost town since the season has ended...to visit the beach that is famous for a surfer riding wave that was over 100ft! Not such huge waves today....[/caption]

From Nazare we followed the coast road, passing through Figuera da Foz ....before finding our stop for the night.

[caption id="attachment_2858" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Seagulls taking refuge from the waves on a sand bank ...[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2859" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Paragliders enjoying the warm sun, gentle breeze and an awesome view....[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2863" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Endless golden sandy beaches....[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2861" align="aligncenter" width="640"] This gives you an idea of the roads we have been travelling today....we took the coast road, only to find that the tarmacked road ran out once we were out of a towns boundary...we then had to cope with whatever came our way, which was usually a potholed, rough surfaced track...until we came within throwing distance of another town, and then the road would miraculously be covered in lovely neat, smooth tarmac![/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2862" align="aligncenter" width="534"] It took us a long time to find our resting place tonight...mainly because although we followed the coast road, there were very few access roads to the beach...eventually, once it was beginning to get dark and it was drizzling we found this place..somewhere between Praia de Quiaios and Praia da Tocha! Not the best place we have ever stayed, but nonetheless, we can still hear the sea...always a bonus![/caption]

 

 

 

6th October 2014

 

On the surfers trail...

5th October 2014

We woke to the sound of the sea today which is always lovely! We drove as far as Ericeira last night, stopping in a large car park above the beach where there were several other vans parked. It's strange this safety in numbers, herding instinct we all have. If there is another van/motor-home in the vicinity you immediately feel safer, not just from a vulnerability, thieving point of view but also in terms of the authorities moving you on...we are a strange bunch!! Personally, we don't really like parking in car parks, we much prefer finding our own quiet beach side spot where we can spread out a little more and relax, however, this was a great solution for last night, because, not only was there a local pizza cafe for tea, but there were also some public toilets that were actually open!!!!...always a bonus!

[caption id="attachment_2837" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Ericeira...a famous surfing town...[/caption]

Another bonus was a cafe for breakfast and wifi...more blog posting!

[caption id="attachment_2836" align="aligncenter" width="640"] A view of the beach ....If you look closely at this picture you can see a red building and behind that two doors? Well....to the right of the doors, against the wall...yes, you guessed it...were two showers!! So, whilst our washing was being cleaned in the local launderette, we went and washed ourselves under these VERY cold showers!!! Oh...we have no inhibitions now...out comes the shower gel, shampoo and conditioner and away we scrub!!![/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2846" align="aligncenter" width="640"] ...we found our new van here too...what do you think?...[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2838" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Once we were squeaky clean and had clean washing we drove on up to Peniche. This is another famous surfing beach/town....particularly famous for the biggest tube wave....[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2840" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Not a really big tube, but a tube wave nonetheless....[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2839" align="aligncenter" width="534"] Today there was a surf competition on...a precursor to the main world surf championships that were taking place the following week...the local guys were competing for a place in the big competition next week...[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2841" align="aligncenter" width="640"] We stayed and watched for a while....these guys were awesome....[/caption]

Amazingly, when we returned to Bluebelle, we found a note under our windscreen from Julias.....him and his family and friends were on the beach we had just walked along .... he had noticed our van....we are rather recognisable...and left us a note. So we spent a while on the beach with them catching up with their last few days since seeing them...such an amazing coincidence and a brilliant chance meeting.

[caption id="attachment_2842" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Praia do Rei Cortico. This has to be one of our favourite overnight stops....perched right on the edge of the cliff, we had an amazing sunset, setting the rocks aglow below us, followed by a cosy night in Bluebelle.[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2844" align="aligncenter" width="640"] A perfect evening.....[/caption]

 

Lisbon 2

4th October 2014

Yesterday was such an amazing day. We got stuck in traffic entering the city....it's amazing how quickly you forget traffic jams and queues etc as there really aren't any here. There is so much space, so many places and the population is spread over a much greater area than back at home. We love the open space, the miles of road between towns and villages and the slow pace of life, however, we really don't want to miss out on what the cities have to offer us...and we really couldn't expect to visit Portugal without coming to Lisbon.

We spent the night alongside the river...not in our usual out of the way kind of way, but as one of a long line of motorhomes. When we arrived here yesterday we were shown into the space ...these guys wait around parking lots, roadside parking etc, show people into a space in return for a small fee...it's an unwritten rule, but it means that we can be assured that Bluebelle will be safe. You will probably remember that we used the same system in Valencia...it really does out your mind at rest..anyway, he told us that we would be fine to stay the night and that it was unlikely that Bluebelle would sustain any damage...especially as it was right outside the local Police station!!!

[caption id="attachment_2813" align="aligncenter" width="534"] Breakfast by the river[/caption]

Once again, we left Bluebelle by the river and walked into Belem centre. It is here that you MUST try the famous traditional Portuguese pastry...Pastels de Nata. Stepping inside a blue tiled building,  Pasteis de Belem,  on the high street in Belem is like stepping into another era....there are old fashioned glass fronted cabinets from floor to ceiling displaying hundreds of items linked to the making of these pastries. Pasteis de Belem is the birthplace of these Portuguese tarts and it is still using the secret recipe from the nuns of Jeronimos Monastery. Since 1837, these tarts have been made in the same premises by one generation after another of the same family.



For those of you who don't know...and I didn't...these pastries are similar to egg custard tarts but much sweeter and far more yummy. Pastéis de nata were created before the 18th century by Catholic monks at the Jeronimos Monastry. At the time, convents and monasteries used large quantities of egg-whites for starching of clothes, such as nuns' habits. It was quite common for monasteries and convents to use the leftover egg yolks to make cakes and pastries, resulting in the proliferation of sweet pastry recipes throughout the country. (Thanks to Wikipedia for the information!!) I have to say, they are the most delicious pastry I have had in a LONG time. Served warm with icing sugar and cinnamon sprinkled on top and washed down with a strong espresso..You must try them. But, be warned, the queues stretch out along the street for most of the day. We went late last night..no queue and again early this morning...again no queue.

[caption id="attachment_2815" align="aligncenter" width="640"] They make over 21,000 of these pastries EVERY day![/caption]

We caught a bus into Lisbon and headed for the museum of Design and fashion ......We found the building covered in 100 different surf boards ...

[caption id="attachment_2816" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Lisbon museum of Design and Fashion[/caption]

Inside the building, which used to be a bank, but has now just been left stripped bare, was an  exhibition of articles of design and fashion from the last decade....We both thought it was incredibly well done and the articles on display were fascinating. Of course, as were entered our era (not telling) there were many comments of 'I remember". 'We had one of those'....!  Graffiti artist Andre Saraiva whose iconic, most recognizable character in the street art world, an exuberant stick-figure alter ego, Mr. A was displayed in all his glory....



[caption id="attachment_2818" align="aligncenter" width="534"] Andre's first graffiti art was to decorate all the post boxes in his local area[/caption]

And, of course there was a display about local surf board makers and a description of how they are made....really interesting!

All this input made us feel hungry so we found a local bar where they served another local dish... pastéis de bacalhau....



These are delicious! They are a kind of fish cake with cheese inside. Served warm, the cheese melts and oozes out as you munch them.

[caption id="attachment_2822" align="aligncenter" width="640"] These yummy morsels have been made in this area since 1904...[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2820" align="aligncenter" width="640"] This poor girl was stood in this booth all day long making the pastéis de bacalhau![/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2823" align="aligncenter" width="534"] Beautiful Lisbon architecture..[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2831" align="aligncenter" width="534"] The tile museum...[/caption]

As you already know, one of the key features of Portuguese houses is that many of them are tiled all over. I never saw two the same, all the designs were different. some were terribly uninteresting and others were vibrant, colourful and beautiful. Having photographed many of the tiles we decided to visit the Tile Museum on the outskirts of the city. Getting there by bus was relatively simple, trying to get a bus home however was another story!!

[caption id="attachment_2824" align="aligncenter" width="534"] Stacks and stacks of old tiles and reference books....[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2826" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Posing...![/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2825" align="aligncenter" width="534"] Just stunning corridors....[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2827" align="aligncenter" width="534"] The museum used to be a convent...[/caption]



[caption id="attachment_2829" align="aligncenter" width="640"] We weren't able to go inside this amazing church as there was a wedding happening...but we did get to watch the proceedings....what an amazing place to be married![/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2830" align="aligncenter" width="392"] I loved this boot which was part of a ceramic display.... It's supposed to show what it may look like had it been lost into the ocean for a long while...[/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2832" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Just a few of the tiles on display[/caption]

By the time we arrived back at Bluebelle time was getting on, but we didn't want to spend another night in Lisbon so we made the decision to move on and find somewhere by the coast to rest our weary legs!